If you’ve been here for a while, you’ll know I’m always keen to tick a new country off my list. Latvia and Lithuania hadn’t even been on my radar until a friend mentioned them.
With affordable flights from the UK, it quickly turned into the perfect plan for a winter escape, hopping between both countries to soak up the festive atmosphere at their Christmas markets.
Riga, Latvia
Getting there
Our first stop was Riga, Latvia, and it couldn’t have been easier to get there. Flights from London Stansted cost just £85, and we used the Mid Stay parking at the airport, which came to £55 for four days. There was a quick shuttle bus that took us straight to the terminal from the carpark.
After landing in Riga, we grabbed a Bolt to our hotel which was very affordable (I found that Bolt offered better prices than Uber). I somehow managed to forget to take photos of the room (very unlike me), but it was a spacious twin with a huge bathroom. We stayed at Old Riga Plaza Hotel and the location was spot on – just a five minute walk into the city centre, making it the perfect base for exploring.
Things to do
As with most short city breaks, the best way to explore is simply to wander. We spent most of our time getting lost in the cobbled streets of Riga’s Old Town.
The Christmas markets were set in the heart of the Old Town and were super festive. There were plenty of souvenir stalls (I couldn’t resist picking up a Christmas tree decoration), alongside lots of food and drink stands. On our first evening, we ate at the markets as it was very affordable and we decided it was much cheaper than eating out. We had sausages and warming stew, both absolutely delicious – all washed down with lots of mulled wine.
If you’re in the mood for a fun night out and a few drinks, there’s plenty of places to choose from just outside the Old Town. The area has many bars, many of which offer dangerously tempting drink deals – including one advertising 50 shots for just €25!
A definite must-see is a trip up St Peter’s Church tower for views over the city. From the top, you get a beautiful perspective of the Old Town, with its colourful rooftops and historic buildings below. And if climbing endless stairs isn’t your thing, don’t worry – there’s a lift that takes you most of the way up.
After clocking up plenty of steps exploring the city, we decided it was time for some well earned relaxation with a sauna session. A bit of research led us to the ESPA Spa at the Radisson Hotel, which cost £38 per person and included two hours in the spa – although timing didn’t seem to be strictly monitored.
The facilities were great, with a pool, two saunas, a steam room and a large jacuzzi area. It was the perfect way to relax and unwind, especially after an evening in the bars the night before.
That evening, we decided to eat out after spotting a very medieval-looking restaurant earlier in the day and it did not disappoint. We were escorted down a stone staircase into a stunning, candlelit room built entirely of stone. The staff were dressed in traditional Latvian costumes, adding to the whole experience.
The restaurant was called Rozengrāls, and the food was divine. We started with the venison soup, served on an iron stand over hot coals – very atmospheric and delicious. The portions were generous, so the staff suggested sharing a main. We went for the rabbit stew, which was yummy and also was my first time trying rabbit – a surprisingly delicious choice!
Vilnius, Lithuania
Getting there
The next day, we caught the 11am bus from Riga’s bus station to Vilnius. The journey took around five hours and cost just £16 per person – great value for travelling between countries. There are no stops along the way, so make sure you stock up on snacks and drinks and use the toilet before boarding.
Once we arrived at Vilnius bus station, we grabbed a Bolt to our hotel, which was quick, easy and cheap.
Once again, I somehow forgot to take a photo of our room. It was a simple twin, much smaller than our room in Latvia, with a compact bathroom. We stayed at Kesminta Apartments, which was around a 12-minute walk into the centre – a handy location for exploring the city.
Things to do
By the time we arrived, it was already dark, so after a quick outfit change and freshen-up, we headed straight out to the Christmas markets. They were set in the stunning Cathedral Square, complete with a huge, beautifully decorated Christmas tree, surrounded by impressive historic buildings and rows of festive stalls.
There were a few souvenir stands, but the focus here was definitely on food – and mainly sweet treats. Everything we tried was delicious, but we were craving something savoury, which was surprisingly hard to find. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed the mini pancakes smothered in Nutella, washed down with (of course) a cup of mulled wine.
We then carried on wandering through the beautifully decorated cobbled streets in search of dinner and eventually stumbled across a traditional Lithuanian restaurant called Amatininkų Užeiga. Feeling adventurous, I decided to try pig’s ear – I can’t say it’ll be making a repeat appearance on my plate, but I do love sampling local dishes and experiencing different food cultures while travelling.
In the Town Hall Square there was a large ice rink surrounded by a few sweet treat stalls and a mulled wine stand. We didn’t get a chance to skate, but it looked like a lot of fun – definitely a great activity to try if you’re in the area.
The next morning, we decided to get our steps in by exploring more of the city on foot. Our first stop was Gediminas Castle Tower. Entry was €8 per person and here you could learn a bit about Vilnius’s history. From the top, the views through the beautiful windows were perfect for capturing some stunning photos of the city below.
From the tower, we could spot the Hill of the Three Crosses, so that became our next stop. It was a short uphill walk through the trees and once again we were rewarded with a great viewpoint over the city.
From there, we noticed a stunning church nearby and decided to check it out – St Anne’s Church. The church was absolutely beautiful, and with several walking tour groups gathered around, obviously a very popular spot for visitors.
After clocking up 30,000 steps around Vilnius, we decided to head out to Trakai Island Castle. We took a Bolt, which was about a 40 minute drive from the city and cost €30. You can take the train to get there, but since we only decided later in the day and didn’t want to risk missing it in the daylight, a taxi was the best option.
Entry to Trakai Island Castle was €10, and it was great to explore the castle, wandering up and down the stairs while learning about its history. There were also a couple of market stalls on the opposite side of the bridge to the castle and naturally, I couldn’t resist picking up a Christmas tree decoration to take home.
On the way back to Vilnius, our taxi driver told us all about Lithuania’s famous pink soup – so much so that they even have a pink soup festival! We made it our mission to try it, and it turns out most restaurants serve it.
One thing to note is that dining options are somewhat limited, and many places were fully booked, so it’s definitely worth planning ahead and making reservations. We ended up in a lovely little restaurant, the oldest in Vilnius, with stone walls and candlelit tables. I tried the pink soup – it’s served cold which isn’t really my thing, but it was interesting to taste. For my main, I went for beaver stew with mash, and to my surprise, it was absolutely delicious!
Vilnius also has a lively bar scene, with plenty of spots serving up delicious cocktails. It’s definitely a great city for a night out if that’s your vibe!
Getting home
The next morning, it was unfortunately time to head home. We took a quick 10 minute Bolt to Vilnius Airport and caught our flight back to Stansted – just £60.
Overall, both countries were absolutely beautiful. Interestingly, we’d been told we’d prefer Latvia over Lithuania, but for us, it was the opposite – Lithuania wowed us with stunning buildings at every turn. That said, I did prefer the Christmas markets in Riga; they were incredibly cute and had so many delicious food options.
I would definitely recommend a trip to both countries. Not many people seem to visit them, but they really should be on everyone’s travel list!
Polly in Paradise 
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